Bean things

A delicious, forgiving bean stew to keep you cozy and sated

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Happy new year, friends! And warm greetings to all my new subscribers, it’s wonderful to have you here! Welcome to today’s Stories from Catbird Cottage. I’m going to go out on a limb and bet you’re ready for comfort food. To me, that often means beans. It wasn’t always this way, but I’ve grown to revel in a pot of creamy beans that give, and then give again. They feel indulgent, they’re versatile and have huge health benefits, and (unlike heavy cream or cheese dishes) beans make my body happy.

Over the holidays I was inspired to make a BIG pot of bean stew. I didn’t know exactly what it would incorporate but I knew I had a lot of veggie odds and ends to use up. Most of them ended up in the pot. In nearly every soup or stew, I add some sort of allium (in this version there was garlic and onions) and usually, homemade stock. Beyond that the sky’s the limit - it’s unlikely you can go wrong. Swap where you need to for what you have available and make it your own.

You’ll see that the recipe includes a cup of leftover rice - this was a spontaneous move on my part, basically just an effort to use the rice up before it started to turn. Adding it to the other ingredients and then putting the lid on to cook the beans made for an extra-creamy stew, without needing to add cream or make a roux. If you don’t have the rice it will be delicious as-is, plus the stew will naturally thicken with time. Either way, have at it and please drop a line in the comments to let me know how it went. ;)

This stew began with a bag of calypso beans. I’d never cooked them before and was amused by the black spotting (conjuring these cows), and I figured it was time to give them a try. They are similar to another heirloom bean that makes a frequent appearance in my cooking, right down to their plump and creamy nature, two of my favorite qualities in cooked beans.

Though I love reaching for a can of beans in a pinch (like when the growing season has begun and I’ve spent all day planting or weeding, then find myself ravenous without anything made)… I mostly opt for soaking dry beans. For one, you’ll get more bang for the buck. Second, cooked dry beans retain a rich structure, whether creamy or meaty, a thing which gets lost in the expedience of canned beans.

I’ve found a good and easy habit: at the end of the day, just pop the dry beans in a mixing bowl and cover with ample water (3-4 inches). Say goodnight and then voilà, the next day you’re on a bean adventure! Set a reminder on your smart device or a post-it on the fridge, if it helps you to begin. If you’re seeking essential bean guidance as you dive in, look here, then go here for further intel, with more heavenly recipes.

I made this stew to share with friends and chose to make it the day before they came over. Partly so I could have the big work done and out of the way, partly to allow the flavors to meld. If you can plan for it, make the stew a day or two in advance - it’ll have thickened and everything will meld together for a truly sublime experience.

Soothing, hearty calypso bean stew
Serves 8

1 lb dry calypso beans (you can also use cranberry, navy bean, or cannellini)
½ a head of cabbage, fibrous root end trimmed, sliced into ribbons ½-inch thick
2 medium onions, ends trimmed and thinly sliced
4 cloves garlic, mashed with the flat side of a knife and coarsely chopped
1 stalk celery (and its leaves if in good condition), thinly sliced
1 yellow or orange bell pepper, cut into ½-inch cubes
2 medium winter radishes, cut into ½-inch cubes
2 small waxy potatoes, peeled and cubed
1 tsp chopped fresh chili, such as Fresno or Jalapeño
1 tsp paprika
1 tsp cumin (toasted, then ground makes for the most flavor)
1 tsp chile spice blend (or chipotle)
1 tsp red pepper flakes
Fresh thyme leaves, stripped from two sprigs
1 bay leaf
6 cups stock (veg or chicken)
2 cups water (or additional stock)
2 tbsp butter
Evoo, for sautéing
kosher salt and freshly cracked pepper
1 cup leftover cooked rice (not a deal-breaker if you don’t have it)

garnish topping
2-3 tbsp chopped soft herbs, such as parsley, dill, and/or cilantro
1 or 2 small winter radishes, sliced very thinly on a mandoline
2 tbsp thinly sliced colorful bell pepper
handful of bittercress, leaves snipped from the rosettes
1 tsp finely snipped chives or field garlic
squeeze of fresh lemon or a drizzle of white wine vinegar
drizzle of extra virgin olive oil
flaky salt + freshly ground pepper

Optional but highly recommended - toasted, buttered crusty bread

Soak the beans in enough water to cover by 4 inches for 6 hours, up to overnight.

Get a Dutch oven hot, set over medium-high heat. Drizzle a generous amount of olive oil and add the onions. Toss to coat, then lower the heat to medium. Cook the onions until they begin to collapse and brown, stirring occasionally. After 5 minutes, add the celery, season with salt, and stir to incorporate.

After 3 or so more minutes, add the cabbage, another drizzle of oil, and the red pepper flakes, paprika, chile blend, and cumin. The cabbage will take up a lot of room - no biggie, as with a little time, the mass will collapse and caramelize, freeing up space for the next ingredients. Stir occasionally to get the pieces not yet cooked towards the bottom of the pan, scooting the more well-cooked elements towards the top.

Add the radishes and potatoes to the pot, followed by a tablespoon of butter, and stir to combine. Season again with salt, stir it all together and cook for 5 minutes or so.

Add the chopped garlic and the remaining tablespoon of butter, scooting everything to one side of the pot so that the garlic can sizzle in the foaming butter. Once it’s fragrant - about a minute - add the bell pepper and fresh thyme into the pot and stir all together. Cook the mixture for another minute or two, then add the beans and the leftover rice (if using), bay leaf, chopped chili, the stock, and water.

Colorful winter radishes and peppers in the tangle of cabbage, homemade stock melting into the elements

Bring the liquid to a boil, then place the lid onto the pot and lower the heat to low. Simmer the stew until the beans are tender, about 1 hour. Fish a bean out and taste - if it’s tender, yay, it’s time to season! If not, cover the pot with the lid again and simmer for another 15 minutes, then check again. Once the beans are tender, remove pot from the heat and season with kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste.

To serve the following day, remove the lid and allow the stew to cool fully, then replace the lid and refrigerate overnight.

Reheat stew over medium heat, then ladle into bowls once hot. Toss together the garnish topping, taste, and adjust seasoning as needed. Pile it onto the center of each stew and serve stew alongside buttered crusty bread for the full experience.

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