Bonanza Time: It's Squash Season!

Eat it all

My gardens are exploding. I waited so long for this time to come, but with this unusual spring, was at times doubtful it would ever arrive. Summer has shown up in a big way, and all growing things are getting carried away.

I’m not complaining, mind you, it just means now’s the time to hold on tight as the *profusion of everything* takes momentum. We have had A LOT of rain. That has also meant a strong showing for berries of every kind and a promising mushroom season, and, everything needs preserving or cooking, all at once.

At this point I am harvesting two or three squash every couple days - plenty for me. I have been pickling them (as in the book, and a new Armenian toorshi recipe I love, an element for the next pop-up dinner). Searing them, shaving them for raw salads… you name it. In addition to cooking the turgid fruits, I have joyfully returned to eating the blossoms. With so many flowers showing up day-to-day in my gardens, I view it as the responsible thing to do. Their ephemeral presence is breath-taking.

This season I’ve begun an exploration of eating the leaves. A year or two back, I’d learned they are edible - communities in Oaxaca have been eating all parts of the squash plant for thousands of years. Not unlike radish greens or arugula, they are lovely as a wilted green in the pan. If you are growing squash, you’re more than likely trimming a stem and leaf here-and-there to prevent crowding as the season reaches peak. You may as well make use of them à la waste-not want-not and feed yourself well.

We have fondly been calling these dinosaur leaves

Here are three squash preparations I am making on repeat this season. There’s something for everyone, and each imparts their own wonderful verve and juicy bliss.

Summer squash with caper-mint gremolata
2 tbsp salt-packed capers, rinsed and strained
2 tbsp toasted almonds, chopped
1/2 cup fresh mint leaves, thinly sliced
zest from 1 lemon
juice from 1/2 lemon
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil, plus more for sautéing
2 zucchini or summer squash, sliced into near inch-thick coins

Combine the capers, almonds, lemon juice and zest, olive oil, and mint in a small bowl and stir to incorporate. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.

Get a large cast iron skillet hot over high heat. Drizzle a generous tablespoon of oil and swirl to coat. When the oil shimmers, add the squash slices all in a single layer (depending on your pan size you may need to cook them in two batches).

Season lightly with kosher salt and sear the slices undisturbed on high for 2 minutes. The sides in contact with the hot pan will start to look deeply burnished, you may even think burnt. Add another drizzle of oil, turn them over and lower heat to medium, and sear for 3-4 more minutes.
 
Add a splash of water. As it vigorously bubbles, turn heat to medium-low and cook slices for 3-5 more minutes, or until they offer some give when gently squeezed with tongs.

Transfer the caramelized lot to a serving platter or plates and generously spoon the gremolata on top. The gremolata is best eaten day-of, as over time the almonds will soften slightly as they sit in the juicy mixture, and the mint will oxidize (but still taste delicious).

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