Dreamboat salmon, grain mustard-caper vinaigrette, purple potatoes + custardy eggs
With some Easter menu favorites, like garlicky spice-crusted leg of lamb
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Hello! Welcome to today’s installment of Stories from Catbird Cottage! The vibe everywhere is Easter. That said, growing up, I didn’t have a religious upbringing - in part because my father’s family fled Europe during the Holocaust, and in part because my mother felt her family’s Protestant upbringing was hypocritical… As a result, religion wasn’t a thing they gravitated to. But, that’s a longer story for another time. My memories of Easter are mostly of tulips and grape hyacinths in my mother’s garden, Easter egg hunts my parents would cheerfully orchestrate for my brother and me, and baskets brimming with fodder, nestled into ubiquitous green shredded cellophane “nests”. There were Cadbury eggs, pastel-hued malt chocolate eggs, Peeps, jellybeans, you name it. It was an occasion (similar to Halloween) to go off script from our household’s usual healthy/frugal fare, and also a day to enjoy a special meal together. Easter memories also included decorating eggs in the wax resist pysanka tradition, thanks to a dear Ukrainian family friend who lived across the alley at our childhood home. So, Easter contains a mishmash of fond memories. Since I don’t have children to spoil and recreate these cherished pieces, Easter is an occasion to create an extra delightful, intentional meal, another excuse to dive into beautiful food.
My mother’s tradition was a garlic studded leg of lamb, which, as it would roast, filled the house with an intoxicating aroma. We impatiently waited for her to slice it and prepare the gravy, then - knowing it might be another year before we feasted on it again - gleefully ate too much once at the table. You could say I am an ardent fan of this savory roast. Carrying the tradition forward, I developed a recipe that incorporates a garlicky aromatic spice crust. It is SO GOOD. The spice-crusted leg of lamb is one of today’s featured recipes for paying subscribers. It’s the kind of dish where any leftovers get piled into messy sandwiches, and slices get dragged through mayo (or aioli) for a decadent snack. A longtime favorite.
The other featured recipe is a very easy (and sooo pretty) simple roast salmon dish, with colorful potatoes, custardy eggs, and a briny vinaigrette that brings it all together. It’s the kind of dish that feels like you made a lot of effort, when in fact it is the simplicity that makes it shine. To make the most of time, prepare the eggs and vinaigrette in advance, and roast the salmon while the potatoes bubble away on the stove.
If you have my book, the Spanish Tortilla, Sauce, Pickles, Salad is an excellent feed-a-crowd dish (whether as a snacking in-between-things item, or for lunch or brunch) and *so good* in its flavor layers, on page 115. The Asparagus + Artichokes (with lush tarragon aioli) makes a sophisticated appetizer, page 123. The Spring Fling Salad in Green is a celebration of verdant juiciness! It’s a salad I make continuously throughout the season - find it on page 124. The impressive Scallops + Veggie Gravel is a guest favorite at Catbird Cottage. You can make the veggie gravel two days in advance, page 133. And for dessert, the Buttermilk Panna Cotta on page 136 is both refreshing and indulgent in its creaminess, another recipe where all elements can be made in advance, leaving just the assembly when it’s time for dessert.
In case you’re still in limbo with Easter meal plans, I thought I’d share a roundup of some other favorite recipes in hopes it’ll bring you inspiration, and, delicious new memories with your loved ones.
Brunch
Double orange French toast + Chantilly cream - Regular oranges are great if you can’t find blood oranges.
Pommes Anna and toppings bar - For years, I was contracted to develop recipes for La Tourangelle Artisan Oils, and this was one of my favorites. Skip the eggs if they’re unavailable (or too pricey) and swap in caper berries or other pickles, or a nest of micro greens or sprouts.
Dessert
Île flottante (floating island) - This show-stopping dessert is a hit for everyone I’ve served it to. Regarding the prep - every single element can be prepared in advance and easily assembled when it’s time for dessert.
Burnt Basque cheesecake - This stunning dessert can be made one day ahead. Serve it with your favorite jam, or fresh macerated fruit.
Mains
Roasted salmon with purple potatoes, eggs + grain mustard-caper vinaigrette
Serves 2
vinaigrette
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