Spring beans
Plump and versatile, perfect for layering with what's in season
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Hello! Welcome friends, to today’s Stories from Catbird Cottage. I’m just going to say it… Spring beans might be my favorite of the many beans. Why? At a time when the weather is still prone to yo-yo, making a dish which can be served warm or room temp means I have greater options at mealtime.
I am neck-deep in the layers of prep for a private dinner tomorrow, and then *the very next day* I am hosting a cookbook club of fabulous women in food, including the likes of Maya Kaimal, Anna Stockwell, Jenna Helwig, Sarah Copeland, Kate Ray, and others… And get this - it’s my book they’ll be cooking from. The timing could not be more perfect, as this weekend marks the *third* anniversary of my award-winning book, A Year at Catbird Cottage! Holy moly how the time passes.
All this busyness means I need food I can quickly pull from that will sustain me. If it can also be versatile, so that whatever odds and ends I have knocking around in the fridge can play a part (aka get used up), voilà the perfect Venn diagram for seamless eating.
If you read my in-depth post on how to build your best pantry, you know beans play a central role in my day-to-day. If you haven’t checked out that post yet (I’m keeping it permanently unlocked so everyone can access it as a longterm resource) I highly recommend you visit that link, next. Amongst various bean varieties I like to keep stocked, I often reach for Mayocobas. They are also known as Peruano or Canary beans and originate in Peru. This heirloom varietal is medium-sized, thin-skinned, yellow, and yields a tender, creamy, velvety bean when cooked. Its mild flavor means you can dress it up anyway you like and it will be delicious. From bean salads to bean dip, to a warm bowl of beans garnished with an array of foods of the moment, Mayocobas can do anything.
You’re most likely to find dry Mayocoba beans. Which is good, because they become exceptionally plump when you cook them yourself. Once they have soaked for 8 hours, they fall in the category of takes longer-than-lentils to cook, but shorter-than-black-beans. If you can’t find them (there are many online shops to source them these days), use Navy beans, Great Northern beans, or Cannellini for similar results.
Use your own preferences to inform what kinds of layers to add, as well as what is available and what’s in season. Here, I made use of a batch of savory garlic mustard pesto (which I always have a few jars of, stacked in my freezer). For last week’s cottage guests, I used some of the pesto to dress handmade pici pasta and I had a little leftover. It was a perfect savory, earthy sauce that mingled with the other elements and the beans. I have mustard greens in my raised beds, but you could also use arugula or spinach… Really, the only limitations are whatever you have in your fridge or what inspires you in the moment.
The final glory for today’s dish is half a custardy cooked egg (protein, plus beauty). With egg prices being what they are, it might feel too precious to use one for just beans. If that’s so, feel free to swap in a few cubes of cheese such as Havarti, Gruyère, feta, or a tear open a ball of creamy burrata. Or, add a dollop of thick yogurt, or sliced mortadella or prosciutto… the possible directions are many, and exploring them can be a lot of fun!
Spring beans
Serves 2
beans
1 lb dry mayocoba beans
4 cups chicken or veg stock
1 tsp red pepper flakes
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp kosher salt
» You will have enough beans for leftovers «
toppings
5-7 leaves mustard greens, or 1 cup arugula or spinach
2-3 radishes, sliced very thinly on a mandoline
2 tbsp your favorite pesto
1/2 cup mix of sliced snow and snap peas
1 egg, cooked until custardy
2 tsp finely snipped chives
2 tbsp chopped parsley, tarragon, or cilantro, or wild greens such as chickweed or lambs quarters
Freshly ground black pepper and flaky salt
Extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling
Soak the beans in cold water to cover by 3 inches for 8 hours or overnight. Halfway through, check in on them to make sure the beans haven’t risen above the surface of the water - if they have, just add an inch more.
The next day, strain the beans and transfer them to a medium saucepan. Add the stock, olive oil, and red pepper flakes. Bring the mixture to a boil, then cover and lower to a simmer. Cook the beans 45 to 55 minutes, until tender. Add the kosher salt, stir to incorporate, taste, and adjust the seasoning as needed. Remove the pan from the heat and replace the lid, then allow the beans in their liquid to fortify for at least 30 minutes to 1 hour.
Spoon a few ladles each of the residually warm beans and their liquid into two shallow bowls (you will have more beans than needed - refrigerate the remainder and yay to food ready to go).
Divide all remaining ingredients between the two bowls: nestle in the mustard greens, radishes, spoonfuls of pesto, and a scatter of the pea mixture. Slice the egg in half if using and arrange onto each bowl, then season with freshly ground pepper and flaky salt. Add a drizzle of olive oil to the veggies and finish with chives and herbs.
More ideas…
any soft herbs, including chervil, cilantro, or dill fronds
a sprinkle of toasted crushed walnuts, almonds or pine nuts
tinned fish, such as sardines, sprats, or mackerel
finely grated lemon zest
a small pile of chopped pickles or sauerkraut
chili crisp instead of pesto
scatter of crispy shallots
rough chopped pico de gallo + tortilla chips
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